From Salzburg, we took the train to Munich and then to Zurich, and on that leg to Switzerland we had our first experience of first-class on the Swiss train network. Mark didn't even mind the 10pm arrival in Lucerne, after traveling in that beautiful, modern car. Walking with our luggage to our hotel, we got our first glimpse of the Old Town with its renowned Chapel Bridge, built in 1333. I could not believe the beauty of the 17th century paintings along the length of the footbridge, and the soothing sound of the rushing river. One little thing marred our arrival -- on that warm summer night, Mark protested when we were told there was no air-conditioning. The receptionist replied, "This is Switzerland." To top it off, we couldn't sleep a wink due to the "laughable" extreme noise from construction on the little street. Thank God, the beauty and charm of Lucerne made up for everything. That first day we roamed around Old Town before heading to Mount Pilatus by boat and then cogwheel train, the world's steepest cogwheel railway. The mountain views, our first in Switzerland, were gorgeous, from the first slow climb on the train to the airy descent on the gondola. It was definitely a highlight, along with the Rosengart Collection of Picasso's and photos by David Douglas Duncan, dinner at Opus Wine Bar on the river, the Jesuit Church dedicated to St. Francis Xavier (idyllic spot for a wedding), cocktails at the Penthouse rooftop bar, and our last evening walk. Breathtaking.